Codif Technologie Naturelle has introduced Hydranov, an innovative moisturizer that mimics the effects of hyaluronic acid for skin care, alongside Capiguard, which protects hair from pollution and safeguards the hair cuticle. Est-Agar produces EstGel1000, a powdered form of furcellaran, a substance known for its high water-binding capacity that effectively reduces transepidermal water loss and provides hydration.
Furcellaran, a sulfated polysaccharide from the carrageenan family, is sourced from the red seaweed Furcellaria lumbricalis, a vital species found in the Baltic Sea. Historically abundant until the 1970s, Furcellaria lumbricalis was among the first European algal species to be used industrially. Currently, the production of this red algae is limited to Estonia.
Due to overfishing and local pollution, algal stocks in other regions have declined. However, Estonian marine scientists have been actively monitoring and conserving these resources for decades, enabling sustainable industrial use.
Kassari Bay in Estonia features 54 monitoring stations dedicated to tracking the quantity of Furcellaria lumbricalis and assessing biodiversity. The analysis not only measures algae population but also evaluates optimal harvesting locations, considering factors like seaweed mass proportion, coverage, and the potential impact on surrounding ecosystems.
The total mass of red seaweed in Kassari Bay is estimated between 150,000 and 200,000 tons, with a sustainable harvesting quota of 2,000 tons (about 1%). Est-Agar, the sole global producer of furcellaran and the quota’s exclusive holder, is committed to sustainability, ensuring natural reproduction rates are maintained while preserving ecosystem integrity.
Empowering Tomorrow: A Journey Towards Sustainable Blue Biotechnology
Est-Agar utilizes efficient and sustainable production methods. Furcellaran is extracted from raw Furcellaria lumbricalis using only pure water, with half of the water sourced from rain collected from the factory roof. The extraction process includes mechanical pressing for gel precipitation, followed by drying and milling. The facility incorporates renewable energy sources and is continually innovating to maximize seaweed resources, aiming for a circular economy with zero waste and pollution.
Currently, there is no manufacturing waste; seaweed residue is repurposed as a natural soil fertilizer. Additionally, there is an ongoing initiative to create bio-based packaging from production waste to replace oil-based plastics.
Unique Structure of Furcellaran: A Texturing Agent with Bioactive Compounds
Furcellaran’s molecular structure resembles that of kappa carrageenan, displaying characteristics similar to a hybrid of kappa and beta carrageenan. The key difference lies in the sulfation pattern; kappa carrageenan has one sulfate ester residue per two sugar units, while furcellaran features one per three or four sugar units, resulting in superior gel elasticity.
Est-Agar produces EstGel1000â„¢, a powdered version of furcellaran. With its high-water binding capacity, it effectively reduces transepidermal water loss, providing moisture. Its polyelectrolytic nature enriches formulations with beneficial minerals, particularly potassium ions, essential for cell renewal.
Furcellaran’s balanced charge density enables interaction with proteins, resulting in various bioactive effects, including anti-aging, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties. As a high molecular weight polysaccharide, it excels in texturing and stabilizing, forming gels under specific conditions. Consequently, pure furcellaran serves as a luxurious texturizing ingredient in beauty products, enhancing viscosity and acting as an emulsifier.
As a plant-based texturant and vegan alternative to gelatin, it is ideal for cruelty-free beauty products. Notably, its bioactive properties can be further enhanced through hydrolysis, yielding a concentrated form.
High-Tech Furcellaran Concentrate by Codif Technologie Naturelle
The French company Codif Technologie Naturelle has developed an advanced furcellaran concentrate. This pure furcellaran undergoes controlled depolymerization using a green technology called HTAC (Hydro-Thermolysis Accelerated by Supercritical CO2). This patented method utilizes acidic hydrolyzation with supercritical fluids to achieve depolymerization without degrading the polymer.
Rehydrating the depolymerized furcellaran with a solution enriched with sea salts introduces minerals, primarily potassium, facilitating a structural reorganization that imparts adsorption properties akin to hyaluronic acid.
Hydranov: A Universal and Smart Moisturizer for Skin
The resulting product, Hydranov, boasts properties beneficial for cosmetic applications. Its high molecular weight allows it to attract and retain water molecules, mimicking the effects of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, effectively creating a hydrating layer on the skin. Additionally, it stimulates the epidermis to produce hyaluronic acid.
Research showed that skin treated with oligofurcellaran at a concentration of 1.5% significantly increased hyaluronic acid synthesis by 211% compared to untreated skin. The treated epidermis showed a marked rise in hyaluronic acid levels, occupying 36.6% of the total epidermal surface compared to 11.8% in untreated samples.
Furthermore, oligofurcellaran enhanced hyaluronic acid production in the dermis by 124% and increased the expression of key proteins involved in skin barrier function, including claudin-1, ceramides, and caspase-14.
Anti-Pollution Effect
This ingredient also protects the skin from pollution, particularly from vehicle exhaust and fine particulate matter (PM2.5). Studies using Standard Reference Material® 2786, which represents urban air pollution, demonstrated that oligofurcellaran effectively reduced pollution particle adhesion to the skin, regardless of whether it was applied before or after exposure.
Furcellaran for Hair Protection and Repair
Codif Technologie Naturelle has also created Capiguard, a product designed for hair care. It protects hair shafts from pollution and carbonylation caused by PM2.5 and UV rays, reducing pollution particle binding by 78% while also eliminating pre-adhered particles.
Capiguard not only protects but also repairs hair, restoring a healthy cuticle. Testing on damaged hair strands showed that treating them with oligofurcellaran reduced penetration of fluorescence staining, indicating improved hair integrity and smoothness. The treatment also facilitated easier detangling.
Conclusion
Today’s consumers prioritize products that are safe, effective, and sustainable. With a commitment to protecting our planet’s resources, sustainability is a driving force in the beauty industry. Both Est-Agar and Codif Technologie Naturelle are leading innovation in this space, utilizing natural red seaweed to create effective beauty products.
Furcellaria lumbricalis extract from Est-Agar enhances the sensory attributes of beauty and personal care products while incorporating bioactive compounds. Meanwhile, Codif’s high-tech furcellaran concentrate has the potential to significantly elevate these properties, with Hydranov providing smart hydration for skin care and Capiguard offering protection for hair in an increasingly polluted world.
