Trade Shows: The Geneva World Perfumery Congress 2024 in Four Phases

Organized by the American Society of Perfumers in partnership with Allured Business Media, the event attracted over 1,600 attendees who engaged in a program centered around “Fragrance Forward: Where Global Innovation & Creativity Meet,” and explored nearly 120 exhibitor booths. Here’s a summary of the new ingredients and technologies presented at the event.

1. The Emotional Dimension of Perfumes

Perfume companies continue to delve into the emotional aspects of fragrances. dsm-firmenich launched Mind Nose + Matter, an exclusive co-creation platform aimed at exploring the future of scents. This tool leverages consumer data, cultural trends, and the creativity of the company’s perfumers. Recognizing that fragrance choice is influenced by more than just the scent itself, dsm-firmenich emphasizes the emotional impact of perfumes through around 20 olfactory trails. “The Mind Nose + Matter 2024 experience highlights the role perfumes can play in helping us through different life moments,” states Justin Welch, Global Marketing Director Fine Fragrance.

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In addition to its Science and Wellness program, IFF showcased a Tree of Emotion—a synesthetic experience that combines odors and colors—alongside the Scent, Sound, and Visual zone, a cabin designed in collaboration with Ircam Amplify for an immersive experience that offers energizing effects in the morning and relaxing ones in the afternoon.

2. A Modern Take on Natural Ingredients

Once again, natural ingredients took center stage, particularly classic perfume materials that have been redefined through responsible sourcing or innovative extraction methods.

For instance, IFF’s LMR Naturals range now features three Mexican citrus fruits that are “traceable to the source”—pink grapefruit, white grapefruit, and lime—resulting in a scent very close to the fruit’s natural essence. This range also includes a For Life-certified blackcurrant bud sourced and produced in France, extracted using supercritical CO2, yielding a less sulfurous and more fruity essential oil.

Mane used this opportunity to unveil several new natural ingredients, including a Pure Jungle Essence of Siam benzoin from a partnership in Vietnam. This benzoin absolute, extracted using supercritical CO2, has a vanilla-like aroma, which is particularly beneficial given the rising cost of vanilla pods. Additionally, Mane presented an E-Pure Jungle Essence of Sambac jasmine, derived from enfleurage—a traditional technique now utilizing vegetable waxes—to capture a fragrance true to the flower’s natural essence: bright, fruity, and less animalic. Furthermore, the introduction of antillone, a natural molecule showcasing green pear and pineapple notes with a pulpy effect, highlights the possibilities of natural and renewable ingredients.

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Italian company Capua also presented innovations, including a bergamot flower and a tangerine flower, featuring infusions of the flowers diluted in the fruit’s essential oil, which is both discolored and furocoumarin-free.

To further emphasize the fresh perspective on natural ingredients, seven suppliers, including Agroforex, Enio Bonchev, Jacarandas, Jasmine CE Pvt. Ltd., Nelixia, SCA3P, and Verger, came together at the Naturals Corner organized by the Resperfuma agency. They showcased their efforts to create and maintain responsible supply chains that ensure high quality and attractive income for producers while preserving ecosystems.

3. New Innovations in Natural Ingredients

While Symrise introduced stunning extracts produced by Maison Lautier 1795, the company also unveiled a groundbreaking addition to the perfumer’s palette: a “super natural” extract of yellow bolete (Boletus auripes), characterized by earthy, umami, and salty notes.

Mane also presented its absolute of Rosa Lani, a hybrid of Damascena, Alba, and Galica roses grown in Moldavia, which offers a petal-like, fruity, and slightly syrupy effect. Meanwhile, Cosmo International Fragrances introduced lemongrass leaf petitgrain essential oil. While petitgrain essence is not new, it typically derives from the sour orange tree and provides bitter, green, and earthy notes; this new essential oil boasts lively, tangy, and sparkling tones.

Synarome, the ingredient division of the Sozio group, showcased a range of high-impact molecules intended for use in small quantities (less than 1%), including Benzoin Laos Matured Resinoid, a benzoin matured to significantly enhance its vanillin content, and Anisyl Nitrile, an alternative to benzaldehyde or coumarin, offering notes of almond, lilac, and mimosa.

Finally, Australian Native Products presented lemon myrtle essential oil, an ingredient with herbaceous and lemony qualities reminiscent of verbena, providing an alternative to certain natural ingredients restricted by regulations.

4. Market Availability of Captive Molecules

Captive molecules, which originate from research and are exclusive to specific perfume companies, may eventually become available to other companies or perfumers.

Givaudan introduced Nympheal this year, a molecule reminiscent of fresh, opulent lily of the valley, known for its volume, creamy texture, and excellent diffusion in formulas. This enables perfumers to create a lily of the valley chord without using Lyral, a molecule banned by IFRA.

Other molecules recently made available include Algix 100% by Synarome for aqueous notes and Ylanganate, a captive molecule developed by IFF in 2010, known for its floral, sunny tones that enhance the radiance and power of white flowers while navigating regulatory restrictions.

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Symrise used its Magnolan, a molecule characterized by zesty, floral, fruity notes, to extract Neomagnolan, an isomer with a more modern, airy effect that is now accessible to other perfumers and fragrance companies.

As anticipation builds for the Geneva World Perfumery Congress 2024 in Four Phases, details regarding the venue and dates for WPC 2026 are yet to be announced, but updates are expected soon. Stay tuned!